雞母狗和菜繭 澎湖特有冬至習俗
2021-12-13 09:20 記者海藍/澎湖報導
冬至就要到了,臺灣本島各地的一般家庭,都會以吃湯圓的方式過節,在澎湖卻有不太一樣的習俗:傳統的澎湖冬至,是全家在一起捏製雞母狗和菜繭,用來取代祭拜祖先的三牲,拜過之後馬上蒸來吃,非常特別。
早期的澎湖由於交通不便,生活物資缺乏,雞鴨魚肉也不是人人買得起,於是到了冬至的時候,會用糯米磨成粉,再加水和成「米粉團」,再將米粉團捏製成雞、鴨、魚等各種動物的形狀來取代貢品;因為造型有雞有狗,所以臺語的名字就叫做「雞母狗」。
除了雞母狗,米粉團還能用來做菜繭。菜繭的外型,看起來就像是放大版的水餃,不過餡料和水餃大不同,用的是香菇、高麗菜、芹菜等,講究點的甚至用上小管乾,但豬肉末只有一點點;這是因為早期的人經濟上比較拮据,肉類的價格又高,因此豬肉末反而用得最少。若有用剩的米粉團,還可以拿來搓成湯圓。
完成後的雞母狗和菜繭,可以馬上蒸、馬上吃,菜繭可以視個人偏好做成鹹或甜的口味。雞母狗自然風乾後,可以放個好幾天不會壞;想吃的時候,用水加糖熬煮,就成了甜湯圓,也可以放入蒸籠蒸軟後沾糖吃,是早期澎湖小朋友最喜愛的應景小甜點。
馬公市長葉竹林說,做菜繭是小時候的回憶,每年冬至前和媽媽一起做菜繭,雖然1年只做1次,卻成了最好的回憶,做法到現在都記得,所以每年參加社區活動捏製時,他都能又快又好的做出來,不輸職業水準。
澎湖這個冬至習俗可以說是全國獨有,將來若有機會在澎湖過冬至,看見家家戶戶用雞母狗和菜繭祭拜祖先時,可別太驚訝,因為這就是澎湖人的冬至傳統,不但口感造型不同,更有慎終追遠的意義。
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