台南新開幕義大利餐廳 推出台南人專屬的檸香牛奶魚義大利麵
2023-4-29 記者田靖/台南報導
北部一家頗負盛名的義大利餐廳,經營者是一對從事冷凍水產批發的年輕夫妻,他們早期曾從事設計工作,因此店內從LOGO設計到室內裝潢,全都不假他人之手,因選材新鮮用料大方及舒適的用餐環境,開設八年來已闖出一片天。因看好南部的餐飲市場,上月間在台南市政府附近,開立分店,推出台南人專屬的檸香牛奶魚義大利麵等料理,令人食指大動!
位在台南市安平區中華西路、府前路口的這家義大利餐廳,老闆本身從事冷凍水產批發,為了兩個愛吃義式料理的女兒才,開始一連串的義大利餐廳之旅。苗圃的名字就以兩個女兒的英文名字諧音的命名為Vivaio ,意思是培育幼苗、樹木幼株的苗圃。該店不使用加工品、半成品、調理包,店內的醬料全以新鮮食材熬製,是為了想創造一家可以每天吃、吃得安心的餐廳。
老闆是台南女婿,總店在基隆,第1家分店就選在台南,台南店內的工作夥伴幾乎都是基隆人,員工認同老闆的經營理念,無論是在基隆紮根或跟隨老闆到異鄉打拼,把創作的美味及對料理的堅持帶到台南,員工都十分欣喜。|
苗圃一開業因新穎獨特的裝潢成為市場焦點、萬眾注目,也因而受到很多同業攻擊及批評,基隆的市場很小,經營餐飲十分不容易,店家把客人的負評做為改善的依據,把同業的優點當成學習的對象,把同業的不足當作借鏡,老闆不曾批評或重傷任何一家餐廳來優越自己,因為他們深知一家餐廳的經營有多麼不容易,更無法想像每位廚師及工作人員在其中付出多少心力。
一路走來,苗圃堅持做自己,不偷工不減料,真材食料得到在地人的認同及支持。更累積經驗,不斷的進步,一直在成長,希望能讓台南鄉親吃到意大利海鮮料理的美味。
29歲的年輕主廚羅永哲指出,在台南設立第一家分店,特別為在地人熟悉的食材,設計專屬意大利料理:「檸香牛奶魚義大利麵」、「冠軍漁夫鍋(漁苗蕃茄海鮮湯)」、「手工黃金蟹肉餅」。檸香牛奶魚義大利麵,都是採用台南在地虱目魚柳,虱目魚在西洋就稱為「牛奶魚」,魚身呈現乳白色,營養價值豐富類似牛奶且帶有淡淡奶香,結合台南特有的食材破布子,再搭配西洋酸豆、檸檬、葡萄乾…,破布子甘甜,西洋酸豆及檸檬味酸,葡萄乾味甜,酸甜滋味、豐富果香提升魚肉的鮮甜,且不蓋過魚肉特有的味道,呈現清爽夏日的風味代表四季如夏的台南,一道專屬台南的義大利麵。
羅永哲表示,基隆、台南與義大利都是靠海的城市,一樣擁有豐富的海洋資源,利用在地漁產設計了這道「冠軍漁夫鍋」,以擅長的義大利料理設計這道家庭式的海鮮湯,一個像乾鍋一樣的型式,選用純銅手鍋盛裝,塑造漁夫粗獷豪邁的性格,整鍋上桌的概念就像在家一樣自然不做作。
羅永哲強調,海鮮在義式料理中占有相當大的比例,不同於中式海產店的大火快炒或水煮海鮮,義式料理手法細膩,重視食材與食材的搭配,作法多元口味層次多變。廚師必須對海鮮特性十分熟悉,真正了解食材才能做出好的料理, 而不是用加工品再加工成料理,他不強調以義大利道地手法料理,反而是更親近在地,選擇適合台灣人的飲食習慣及口味去設計菜單,在台南做出不一樣的異國特色料理。
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