端午節獻禮 海龍辛花園開幕 訴說府城肉粽小吃故事
2023-6-19 記者/黃建樺 報導
海龍肉粽是台南深具歷史與美味的老字號,位於神農街64號的起家厝近年重新整修為「海龍辛花園」肉粽故事館,6月18日於端午節前夕正式開幕,未來將在周末、周日免費開放參觀。台南市副市長趙卿惠、文化局長謝仕淵出席揭幕儀式時,以兩人姓氏諧音(tio̍h- lâi tsia̍h)打趣,致詞表示海龍辛花園為神農老街填入了在地的美食記憶與人文滋味,邀請大家一定要來品嚐。
海龍肉粽創始人辛海樹和陳玉夫妻倆,人稱海龍伯和海龍姆。海龍伯擅做生意,海龍姆精烹飪,夫妻胼手胝足,隨著季節推出小吃,烏魚米粉、土魠魚羹、虱目魚粥、豆腐羹、膨風豆湯和蝦米飯,還有長年都有的米粉炒、香菇肉羹、味噌湯等,其中最受歡迎的肉粽,傳承80多年,儼然是一部府城小吃史。後代子孫在大哥辛久雄帶領下,同心協力整修起家厝,把幼時生活過的空間,還有海龍一步一腳印發展茁壯的歷史一一重現在海龍辛花園,是一座粽子故事館,也是府城美味小吃史博物館,為台南及神農老街增添文化底蘊。
館長辛久雄說1946年父母帶著他遷居神農街64號分租一個小房間,之後弟妹陸續出生,一家七口同住兩坪大的空間。賺了錢,再買下整間房子共53坪。辛家人珍愛老家,兄弟姐妹們常在老家歡聚,為了紀念父母一生辛勞,他們重修老房子,希望留下父母做生意的手藝和方法,供後人懷念,打造家族的歷史,也保留老街的文化氣息。未來每週六、日開放參觀,並有南台科大學生協助導覽服務。
台南市副市長趙卿惠致詞表示,第一次吃府城肉粽,就是在海龍號,找回了傳統舌尖的味道。神農街是台南具代表性的街道,獨特的風水地理,不僅讓辛家子女人才輩出,對社會深具貢獻,包括高等法院高雄分院庭長黃建榮等也都在神農街64號出生,感謝辛家願意保留起家厝,只有填入歷史與記憶,文化造街才不是空的,邀請大家再一起見證海龍辛花園的新歷史。
學者出身的台南市文化局長謝仕淵長期關注台南飲食小吃文化研究,愛吃肉粽的他認為辛海樹夫妻創立海龍號的故事就是從土地上發出的根和花,非常有代表性。他將把海龍號寫入下個月出版的新書中。
海龍辛花園是傳統神農街街屋,二層樓三進廳,以白色做為底調,搭以海龍肉粽開店以來的舊器物,介紹台南美食小吃,以及海龍家族成員,並且介紹神農街屋形式,豐富精緻,深具可看性。全館由建築師劉國滄規劃設計,並由台南社大李武昌老師做室內園藝創作;共有6個主題,分別是海龍家與2坪小房間、海龍肉粽、海龍小吃80年、水仙宮市場與海龍小吃遷徙史、神農街屋生命史、粽子大觀園等。李武昌老師非常肯定辛家把老屋變成花園的用心,認為家家戶戶多一點綠意,城市可以更美好。
辛家子女有六人擔任教職,作育英才無數。其中辛久銘、辛美月曾獲師鐸獎。辛久銘於民德國中任教時,曾讓橄欖球隊員借住神農街老家,肉粽吃到飽,打造出該校優異成績。辛美月曾任中山國中數學老師,逝世後也遺愛人間,捐助該校數學獎學金。今天多位校長出席,感謝辛家子女在教育界的貢獻。
海龍辛花園入館左邊牆壁上是兩個大剪影,嵌著海龍伯和海龍姆頭像,兩人咧嘴而笑,彷彿歡迎所有人到他們老家做客,溫暖而親切。右邊則是當年全家7人共住的6米平方的小房間,這方小天地也如實呈現在海龍辛花園裡,剛剛好建成一座室內花園。
正廳是一個裝置藝術大粽子,擺滿了海龍肉粽的製作過程,海龍肉粽料多實在,祕訣在於肉燥先爆香,舖上糯米後,把粽料香菇、蛋黃、土豆,都放進肉粽裡,再加上一大塊醃過醬油的豬肉塊,粽子最上方再加上爆香過肉燥,全部包在粽子裡,粽香料多,號稱是最有CP值的台南肉粽。菜粽,走的是極簡風格,糯米加上花生粒,花生的品質就非常重要,煮過但不熟爛的花生,吃起來有咀嚼感,還要帶著香氣,是真正的台南菜粽。
二樓的空間規劃為藝文空間,採用自然天光,並且以榻榻米舖出一個溫韾的空間,可以舉辦小型講座,或是茶會、音樂會等活動。
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